Pierre Bergé once famously stated, "Gabrielle Chanel gave women freedom. Yves Saint Laurent gave them power." Yves Saint Laurent is not only widely regarded as one of the most influential fashion designers but also as a revolutionary figure in women's fashion during the 1960s. Through Yves Saint Laurent's distinctive artistic vision, he became the first living designer to receive a solo exhibition at New York's Metropolitan Museum of Art in 1983. In this article, let's learn about this talented genius and how he is shaping women's empowerment through fashion.
(Yves Saint Laurent: Shaping Women's Empowerment Through Fashion - dans le gris)
Yves Saint Laurent and his assistant Claude Licard judging the effect of a fabric worn by Heather, 11 rue Jean-Goujon, Paris, December 1961. Photograph by Pierre Boulat. © Courtesy Association Pierre et Alexandra Boulat
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A Shy Boy Who Enjoyed Creating Paper Dolls
Paper doll Suzy wearing a daytime dress, 1953. © Fondation Pierre Bergé — Yves Saint Laurent
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Yves Mathieu-Saint-Laurent was born in Oran, Algeria, on August 1, 1936. Growing up with his sisters Michèle and Brigitte among the social circles of Oran, Yves Saint Laurent was a shy and sensitive schoolboy. Despite facing bullying at school, he found comfort in the world of fashion. As a teenager, Yves Saint Laurent, already an avid reader of literature and fashion magazines, discovered his talent for drawing. At home, he took solace in the world he crafted in his drawings. Moreover, he enjoyed creating paper dolls and began designing dresses for his mother and sisters.
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Yves Saint Laurent and his paper dolls, Paris, 1957. Photograph by François Pagès. © François Pagès / Paris Match / Scoop
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Inspired by Christian Bérard
Yves Saint Laurent commenced his artistic journey at an early age, drawing inspiration primarily from the works of Christian Bérard and illustrations featured in fashion magazines. A prominent figure in the Parisian arts scene during the mid-twentieth century, Christian Bérard contributed as an illustrator for renowned fashion houses such as Elsa Schiaparelli, Christian Dior, and Coco Chanel. His drawings adorned prestigious fashion publications from the 1930s to the late 1940s, characterized by elegant and delicate lines. Yves Saint Laurent found inspiration in Bérard's style, both in his designs and fashion illustrations, making him a significant influence on the budding designer.
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Left: Christian Bérard painting "Les enfants des Goudes" (1941). Photograph by André Ostier © Indivision A. et A. Ostier. Right: An Alix look from "A Panorama of Paris Openings," artwork by Christian Bérard, Vogue, September 15, 1937.
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Haute Couture Beginnings: Yves Saint Laurent with Christian Dior
Christian Dior and Yves Saint Laurent backstage at a fashion show, 30 avenue Montaigne, Paris, circa 1955-1957. © Droits réservés
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In 1953, shortly after turning 17, Yves Saint Laurent met Michel de Brunhoff, the editor-in-chief of Vogue (Paris), who encouraged him to pursue a career in fashion. In the autumn of 1954, Yves Saint Laurent relocated to Paris. De Brunhoff, noticing a resemblance between Yves's work and Christian Dior's drawings, facilitated a meeting between the two. Impressed by the young talent, Christian Dior promptly decided to hire Yves Saint Laurent as his assistant.
Yves Saint Laurent spent two years working alongside Christian Dior. During this time, he not only learned haute couture from the master himself but also infused it with a youthful air. Quickly earning Christian Dior's trust, Yves Saint Laurent was given more and more responsibilities. Christian Dior even complimented Yves Saint Laurent, acknowledging him as young but possessing immense talent. On the other hand, Yves Saint Laurent stated that Christian Dior taught him the essentials, allowing him to assert himself, grow strong, blossom, and ultimately emanate his own universe.
In 1957, Christian Dior died from a heart attack. In accordance with his wishes, Yves Saint Laurent became his successor and was appointed artistic director of the haute couture house at the age of 21.
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Yves Saint Laurent for Christian Dior autumn-winter 1960 haute couture collection, known as the "Souplesse, légèreté, vie" collection, 30 avenue Montaigne, Paris, 1960. © Keystone-France/Gamma-Rapho
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Fashion for Every Woman
In 1961, Yves Saint Laurent, along with his partner Pierre Bergé, started their own fashion house, and the house's logo, as people might be familiar with, "YSL," was designed by graphic designer Cassandre. For Yves Saint Laurent, he created a monogram of three simple, intertwined initials, which was elegant and modern, just like the young man.
Originally a House of Haute Couture, however, by 1966, Yves Saint Laurent revolutionized the way fashion and society intersected. During that time, a growing number of women desired to dress elegantly yet affordably. Yves Saint Laurent pursued his vision to make clothing accessible to everyone, not just the wealthy. He became the first fashion designer to open a ready-to-wear boutique under his name. As Marguerite Duras wrote in the preface to Yves Saint Laurent et la photographie de mode, "Saint Laurent's women are from harems, castles, and even the suburbs; they are all over the streets, subways, dime stores, and stock exchanges." This statement confirms how Yves Saint Laurent made fashion accessible for every woman.
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Yves Saint Laurent Gave Women Power
Left: Illustrative sketch of the first pea coat designed by Yves Saint Laurent in 1983 for the Metropolitan Museum of New York exhibition catalogue. © Yves Saint Laurent. Right: First pea coat from the Spring-Summer 1962 haute couture collection. Photograph by the Séeberger brothers. © Frères Séeberger.
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Yves Saint Laurent debuted his first collection in 1962, with the iconic pea coat as the opening piece, marking the initial presentation under his own name. This ensemble laid the foundation for Yves Saint Laurent's distinctive style, characterized by a fusion of menswear elements tailored to offer both comfort and confidence for women.
Early in his career, Yves Saint Laurent drew inspiration from menswear, particularly when he turned to the classic pea coat—a robust woolen overcoat traditionally worn by sailors to combat the cold. The straightforward design of this practical garment played a pivotal role in shaping the feminine silhouette. Its loose fit and hip-length coverage made it an ideal choice for women who, at the time, might not have felt bold enough to wear pants, emphasizing a style that gracefully navigated the contours of the female form.
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Le Smoking by Yves Saint Laurent, Vogue Paris, Paris 1975. © The Helmut Newton Estate
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In Yves Saint Laurent's Autumn-Winter 1966 collection, he daringly debuted his most iconic piece: Le Smoking. This design garnered attention in the fashion world during an era when it was still controversial for women to wear trousers in public. Yves Saint Laurent ingeniously combined elements from both men's suits and women's clothing. Unlike the conventional male tuxedo, Le Smoking featured a more feminine collar with subtle shapes. Moreover, Yves Saint Laurent pioneered long, minimalist, androgynous styles for women, introducing power suits and the pantsuit to modern-day society.
Interestingly, Le Smoking initially was disregarded by his haute couture clients, and only one was sold. But now it has become a classic of Saint Laurent. As Yves Saint Laurent said, "Fashion fades, style is eternal." Le Smoking not only brought about a significant change in fashion but also stands as a symbol of timeless design.
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A Timeless Legacy in Fashion History
Yves Saint Laurent and Diana Vreeland walking through the fashion designer's first retrospective, Metropolitan Museum, New York, December 1983. Photograph by Jean-Claude Deutsch. © Jean-Claude Deutsch
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In 1983, an exhibition devoted to Yves Saint Laurent opened at the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Organized by Diana Vreeland, the influential former editor of Vogue, this exhibition was the first retrospective of a living fashion designer's work. Initially, Diana Vreeland wasn't convinced of Yves Saint Laurent’s superlative talent. However, by 1983, her perception had shifted. In the exhibition catalog, she declared, "He is without any question the leader in all fashion today."
Even now, we still see many fashion designers paying homage to the legacies of Yves Saint Laurent. He not only reshaped the history of women's fashion but also became an enduring legendary influence. Yves Saint Laurent passed away in Paris at the age of 71 in 2008. Over the years, its founder, the fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent, secured a reputation as one of the 20th century's foremost designers and icons.
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Yves Saint Laurent, Anne-Marie Muñoz, and Pierre Bergé during preparations for the autumn-winter 1977 haute couture collection, the studio at 5 avenue Marceau, Paris, 1977. Photograph by Guy Marineau. © Musée Yves Saint Laurent Paris / Guy Marineau
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Continue Reading:
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