Dame Vivienne Westwood: A Pioneer of Punk Fashion

Vivienne Westwood's boutique, World's End, is located at 430 King's Road in Chelsea, London.
(Dame Vivienne Westwood: A Pioneer of Punk Fashion - dans le gris)
During this period, Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren began designing their own t-shirts with provocative printed slogans. Additionally, Vivienne Westwood started dressing the English punk rock band the Sex Pistols, which played a crucial role in shaping the anti-establishment aesthetic prominent in the 1970s. With contributions from the Sex Pistols, British youths seeking anarchy, and influences such as the Teddy Boy subculture and fetishists, Vivienne Westwood helped pioneer punk as not just a style but also an ethos and a movement.
(Dame Vivienne Westwood: A Pioneer of Punk Fashion - dans le gris)

Pamela Rooke, known as Jordan, and Simon Barker, called Six, modeled Vivienne Westwood's "God Save The Queen" tees. Both were supporters of the Sex Pistols, and Jordan worked at Vivienne Westwood's boutique. Photo Credit: Mirrorpix/Getty Images.
(Dame Vivienne Westwood: A Pioneer of Punk Fashion - dans le gris)
Vivienne Westwood aimed to provoke young punks into political action, believing her clothes reflected her radical views during the 1970s. However, she became disenchanted as although she successfully influenced the mainstream adoption of punk, many were uninterested in its radical political underpinnings, viewing the movement's style merely as a marketing opportunity.
(Dame Vivienne Westwood: A Pioneer of Punk Fashion - dans le gris)

In 1981, Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren debuted their first proper collection during London Fashion Week, titled Pirate. Departing from her punk roots, Vivienne Westwood drew inspiration from art and history for this collection. Pirate significantly influenced the aesthetic of "The Worlds End Boutique" with its pirate-themed features. Bursting onto the London fashion scene with romantic looks in gold, orange, and yellow, Pirate solidified its place in the house's influential history.
(Dame Vivienne Westwood: A Pioneer of Punk Fashion - dans le gris)

Vivienne Westwood, FW 1981 ready-to-wear Photo Credit: David Corio/Redferns.
(Dame Vivienne Westwood: A Pioneer of Punk Fashion - dans le gris)

Around 1984, Vivienne Westwood met Keith Haring in New York. Although Keith Haring's imagery is now ubiquitous in pop culture and streetwear, Vivienne Westwood was the first to feature his art on the runway. Their collaboration resulted in one of the most interesting fusions of fashion and street style, known as the "Witches" collection. This collaboration also marked the final partnership between Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren before Vivienne Westwood launched her eponymous fashion label.
(Dame Vivienne Westwood: A Pioneer of Punk Fashion - dans le gris)

Vivienne Westwood poses with the model wearing the Witches collection, 1983-1984.
(Dame Vivienne Westwood: A Pioneer of Punk Fashion - dans le gris)

Vivienne Westwood's Orb Logo

It's not hard to associate the orb logo with Vivienne Westwood; it symbolizes the concept of taking tradition into the future. Following her separation from Malcolm McLaren, Vivienne Westwood began working on a collection themed around royalty with a futuristic twist, inspired by the idea of blending tradition with innovation. Influenced by her mother, who showed her some astronomy magazines, Vivienne Westwood was inspired to incorporate the orb into her designs. The orb logo became synonymous with her brand, perfectly embodying her vision of blending tradition with modernity. Initially appearing on labels, embroidered on garments, and on buttons, its usage has expanded over the years and remains an iconic symbol of her brand.
(Dame Vivienne Westwood: A Pioneer of Punk Fashion - dans le gris)

The orb logo became synonymous with Vivienne Westwood.
(Dame Vivienne Westwood: A Pioneer of Punk Fashion - dans le gris)

Vivienne Westwood's Iconic Corset

Vivienne Westwood always drew inspiration from the past, believing that "When you explore the past, you enter the future." Her fascination with history was evident in her 18th century-inspired corsets, symbolizing her vision for historical fashion. In an era where corsetry had fallen out of fashion since the 1950s and 1960s, Vivienne Westwood's reinterpretation challenged conventions. Traditionally, corsets were worn to cinch the waist and support the bust, concealed beneath clothing. However, Vivienne Westwood revolutionized their purpose by introducing them as outerwear, a bold move that defied patriarchal norms. Instead of constraining women, her corsets empowered them, marking a radical shift in fashion ideology.
(Dame Vivienne Westwood: A Pioneer of Punk Fashion - dans le gris)

Models kiss as they wear outfits during a fashion show by British designer Vivienne Westwood. Photo Credit: John van Hasselt/Sygma via Getty Images.
(Dame Vivienne Westwood: A Pioneer of Punk Fashion - dans le gris)
The Portrait Corset made its debut in Vivienne Westwood's Autumn-Winter 1987/88 Harris Tweed collection, marking her as the first designer of the 20th century to challenge the traditional flat corset structure. This structure, originally worn by fashionable women in 18th-century salon culture, was subverted by Westwood in a groundbreaking move. Vivienne Westwood called the corset the "Stature of Liberty," which became a signature piece and enduring icon of the house.
(Dame Vivienne Westwood: A Pioneer of Punk Fashion - dans le gris)

A model displays an outfit by Vivienne Westwood as part of London Fasion Week on Oct. 13, 1991. Photo Credit: Martyn Hayhow/AP.
(Dame Vivienne Westwood: A Pioneer of Punk Fashion - dans le gris)
By emphasizing the natural curves of the body, the corset served as a subtle assertion of one's social status. It remained a staple in Vivienne Westwood's collections until her passing in December 2022, evolving each season with new limited-edition designs meant to be cherished, collected, and worn again. This commitment to longevity reflects Vivienne Westwood's famous mantra: "Buy Less, Choose Well, and Make it Last."
(Dame Vivienne Westwood: A Pioneer of Punk Fashion - dans le gris)

Vivienne Westwood's Royal Honor

In 1992, Vivienne Westwood was appointed an Officer of the Order of the British Empire (OBE) for her contributions to fashion design. When she received the OBE, Westwood made a memorable fashion statement by wearing a perfectly tailored skirt suit paired with a matching grey hat. Despite the demure appearance of her outfit, Vivienne Westwood wore nothing but sheer tights with a reinforced bikini top under her skirt, which was later captured by a photographer in the courtyard of the Palace. This act is rumored to have amused the Queen. In 2006, Vivienne Westwood was elevated to the rank of Dame Commander of the Order of the British Empire (DBE), further recognizing her outstanding achievements in the fashion industry.
(Dame Vivienne Westwood: A Pioneer of Punk Fashion - dans le gris)

Fashion designer Vivienne Westwood at Buckingham Palace, in London, where she received her OBE from Queen Elizabeth II. Photo Credit: Martin Keene – PA Images/PA Images via Getty Images.
(Dame Vivienne Westwood: A Pioneer of Punk Fashion - dans le gris)